The Tokyo Traveler

Christmas is not even a national holiday in Japan and there is no tradition of gift exchanges but the Japanese do love a good dose of western Christmas music and light displays.  One of the best Christmas light displays, or illuminations as they are called in Japan, takes place in and around the ultra modern Roppongi Hills complex in Tokyo.

Along Roppongi Keyakizaka dori (street) you will find an avenue of trees awash in blue lights, the 66 Plaza has chosen a cheerful red and orange theme and countless presents line the Mori courtyard and the Museum Cone area.  Illuminations are open daily from 5PM through 11PM and are free to enjoy.

The best view of all comes from the top of the Mori Building which offers Tokyo City Views from 270 Meters above ground while surrounded by twinkling lights.  Visit the 52nd Floor to take in a 5 meter tall Casablanca Christmas Tree and live musical performaces from mid- December.

PLACE: Tokyo City View Observation Deck
HOURS:
Weekdays & Holidays: 10:00-23:00 (Last Admission 22:30)
Friday, Saturday and Day Before Holidays: 10:00-25:00 (Last Admission 24:00)
SKY DECK HOURS:
10:00-20:00 * open UNTIL 22:00 DURING 11/22-12/25 (Last Admission 30min.before closing)*
ADMISSION: ¥1,500

* closed on 11/13 & 11/19

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The Tori no Ichi fair has been held each November on the days of the rooster since 1630 when people came to pray for heath and good harvests by dedicating a rooster to the local deity. The event takes place each year at Tokyo’s Temple of Tori (Juzaisan Chokoku-ji) and Ootori Jinja Shrine in Asakusa and this year the final fair day will be November 29th.  

In modern times people no longer dedicate a roster, they purchase kumade, decorative bamboo rakes, and otafuku, masks depicting a round-faced woman, from vendors who set up stalls on the grounds of the temple on the day of the fair.  Many believe that displaying a kumade will ensure a prosperous business and good luck in the upcoming year and that one must buy a larger kumade each year to ensure the effectiveness of your prayer.  As a result there are some very large and ornate kumade being carted off by the locals.  

Decorations that commonly adorn kumade include masks of lucky Gods, replicas of gold coins, the seven gods of good fortune (Shichi-Fuku-Jin), miniature treasure ships (Takarabune) and chests, bales of rice, sea bream and even small replicas of shrines.  The lively vendors hawk their beautiful wares until midnight and the silver and gold decorations on the kumade add a sparkle to the evening that is a sight to behold.

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