The Tokyo Traveler

Tattoos in Japan - not just for yakuza (gangsters) anymore.  While there are still social stigmas surrounding the tattooed, attitudes are changing…slowly.

10 things about Tokyo that will blow your mind by MatadorTrips.  Mind-blowing, maybe not, but still an interesting read.

Busses in Japan are a cost effective alternative to taking the famous bullet train, better know as the shinkansen, in Japan.

The Rough Guide to the Music of Japan offers 73 minutes of traditional music from the land of the rising sun.  Paul Fisher compiled the CD and was interviewed by The Japan Times.

Ageing gracefully in Japan? The myths surrounding the perfectly cute 50 year old.

Critics dispute Michelin regard for Tokyo but there are some restaurants that everyone agrees on.

With an ageing population, Japan’s temples struggle to remain financially self sufficient.

Image Credit: Flickr, Nothing to Hide

Cats, dogs, horses and birds, oh my!  These are just a few of the animals that represent good fortune in Japan.  They are a common sight in business and homes around Tokyo and are often printed on talismans that can be purchased from the temples and shrines that abound in the city of Tokyo.  Folklore and tradition play a big part in the symbolic use of animals to ensure good fortune and prosperity to those who display them.  Here are just a few of the creatures in the menagerie:

Maneki-neko is a cat with a raised paw that is displayed to ensure a prosperous business.  It’s raised paw is said to beckon customers and money into shops.  You will see maneki-neko with either the left or right paw raised - if the left is raised the neko is beckoning customers to enter an establishment and if the right is raised the intention is to attract money and good fortune. 

Inu-hariko is a paper mache dog that is said to help women in child birth and in raising their children.  The legend began with a traveling teacher who wrote out, sealed and left a tightly sealed blessing in an amulet near the entrance to a farmer’s barn in thanks for his hospitality.  In the years that followed, the farmer was blessed with bountiful crops and became curious as to what words of wisdom were written inside the amulet.  When the farmer opened the tightly sealed amulet a dog jumped out and ran away, along with his successful crops.  The only word inscribed on the paper was ‘inu’, the Japanese word for dog.  It is unclear how the Inu-Hariko has come to be associated with child birth and parenting but it is a common sight on children’s toys and in nurseries throughout the country.

Akabeko, a red paper mache cow, is said to keep away misfortune and illness.  The legend of Akabeko dates back to the year 807 when a cow that was used to haul timber for the construction of a temple refused to leave after the temple was complete and became a symbol of Buddhist devotion.  Eventually toys were created in the image of Akabeko and the legend was strengthened when children who owned the toys were spared during a smallpox outbreak.

Wara-uma is a straw horse meant to ensure a bountiful harvest.  Local legend tells us the straw horses were first used when a prized herd of horses belonging to a warrior were taken over by an evil spirit.  Straw horses were made and given to a Shinto priest who is said to have purified the spirits of the real horses by setting the straw replicas adrift on the outgoing tide.

Tanuki, the Raccoon dog, is famous in Japan as a symbol of protection from fire and theft and is said to be able to help businesses flourish.

Lastly, one of the most symbolic animals is Japan is the crane, or tsuru, which appears in art, folklore and literate.  The crane symbolizes good fortune, peace and longevity.  The paper crane is also one of the most well know forms in origami, Japanese paper folding, and is one of the first items a new folder will make.

When you visit Tokyo be sure to see how many of this menagerie of good fortune that you can find…and let me know if I missed one of your favorites!

Image Credit:  Wikimedia, PD-Maneki Neko, Hariko Inu Osaka, personal collection & Flickr, Mesh Crane

Are you a vegetarian looking for dining options in Tokyo?  If so, then you will definitely want to try shojin ryori, the traditional food of Zen monks in Japan, which is pure vegan and is in rooted in Buddhist teachings dating back to the 13th century. 

A shojin ryori meal consists of seasonable vegetables and wild plants accompanied by with seaweed, miso soup, rice, soybean curd (tofu), seeds and nuts.  This simple style of cooking limits the use of sauces and seasonings and highlights the distinct flavors of each fresh ingredients.

Some temples in the Tokyo area serve shojin ryori to the public or you can choose from one of the vegetarian restaurants listed on the Tokyo Food Page or at Happy Cow.  Another resource for vegetarians visiting is the Tokyo Vegetarian Guide which offers restaurants listings and a variety of other information that is a bit dated but otherwise useful.

For those days when a restaurant serving vegetarian cuisine isn’t available, or conveniently located, you will want to review these useful Japanese words and phrases for vegetarians.  For example, if you want to say “I am a vegetarian”, the correct Japanese phrase is “Watashiwa bejitarian desu” and if you want to say “I don’t eat any meat” you would use the phrase “Watashiwa onikuga taberaremasen“.  The listing also includes the kanji for these and other phrases which will come in handy if you find pronouncing Japanese words difficult.

I am not a vegetarian but I have eaten many meatless meals in restaurants throughout the city.  While I cannot say with certainty that these meals met the standards of a truly vegetarian or vegan diet, I can tell you that finding them wasn’t difficult and that they were delicious.

Image Credit:  Flickr, Ekoin temple - Shôjin-ryôri Dinner (at 5:30pm)

Toto Norenkai is an association of shops and businesses that have been in operation in Tokyo, formerly know as Edo, for over 100 years and three generations. In Japanese the single word “Toto” captures the essence of both old Edo and modern-day Tokyo, and “noren” refers to the traditional curtain-like sign that is hung over the doorway to announce the name of the shop and that it is open for business, while “kai” means “club” or “association”.

Established in 1951, as a way to preserve the traditions of old Edo while promoting their business to an evolving clientele that was moving away from the ‘old’ towards the ‘new’ after WWII, Toto Norenkai now has 53 members. From restaurants to kimono and fan makers, from traditional confectioners to to makers of fine Japanese Lacquer Ware, many great business are part of Toto Norenkai.

Nakasei Tempura Restaurant is a member, they have been making Edo-style tempura since 1870 featuring nothing but fish and shellfish caught in Tokyo Bay and deep-fried in aromatic sesame oil. (Near the Asakusa Station and marked by the green arrow on this map)

Kuroeya has been dealing in fine-quality lacquer ware since its founding in 1689. (B11 Exit from the Nihonbashi Station marked by the green arrow on this map)

Chikusen has been in business since 1842 and specializes in Edo Komon, a formal Kimono, and Yukata. (B3 Exit from the Nihonbashi Station marked by the green arrow on this map)

Miyamoto Unosuke has been manufacturing taiko drums since 1861 and has an interesting and interactive display in their Askakusa Museum (Near the Asakusa Station and marked by the green arrow on this map)

Take some time to visit some of the other businesses that are part of Toto Norenkai when you visit Tokyo and help support the preservation of the traditional arts and crafts that are unique to Japan.

Image Credit: Personal Collection

If you were asked to pick a color associated with Tokyo, what color would that be? I think the first colors that come to mind for most people would be red and black but the city offers a veritable rainbow, or niji, of colors to her visitors. Let’s explore the colors of Tokyo…

Aka (Red) is the color of the circle representing the sun on the Hinomaru, the flag of Japan, and is considered good luck. The Kaminarimon Gate in Asakusa and many of the shrines around Tokyo are painted in this deep crimson color.Kiiro (Yellow) is the color of the Ginko biloba leaves in the fall. Better know for their green color, the Ginko biloba leaf is one of the symbols of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. Midori (Green) can be found in the parks and gardens that are pockets of natural beauty amidst the modern architecture and noise of this bustling city. Sakurairo (Pale Pink) is the color of spring in Tokyo and the color of the cherry blossoms that bloom each year. There are so many other colors that Tokyo has to offer, there is the blue and white of the traditional pottery and fabrics, the white and silver that is ever present on the modern architectural wonders that grace the Tokyo skyline, and the black sumi ink that artists use to create renderings of the kanji and Japanese poetry that are gorgeous in their simplicity.

Lastly, covering the whole spectrum of color is the aptly named Rainbow Bridge in the Odaiba area of Tokyo.

Come explore the rainbow of colors that Tokyo has to offer, you won’t be disappointed!

Image Credits: Flickr, Kaminarimon, Japanese style garden #2, 銀杏並木, Cherry Blossom at night & Rainbow Bridge

Recently I shared 10 Tips for a Greener Trip to Tokyo and told you that the use of eco-bags by residents of the city was increasing. The furoshiki is the original eco-bag and is a simple square piece of cloth that the Japanese have been using to wrap and carry items for centuries. It is a beautiful, not to mention ‘green’, item that you can take home with you and that will serve as a lovely reminder of your time in Japan.

The Ministry of the Environment in Japan promotes the use of furoshiki and dates it’s first use to the Muromachi Period (1392-1573), when people spread it out in place of a bath mat or wrapped one’s clothes with it. Today furoshiki can be found in many stores throughout Japan and they come in a vast array of beautiful colors and patterns. VideoJug shares a great video that demonstrates how items of all shapes and sizes can be wrapped and carried stylishly in a furoshiki.

How To Carry Groceries With A Square Of Cloth

The furoshiki is a symbol of traditional Japanese culture that highlights the principle of mottainai which calls for making full use of an item and not being wasteful. Furoshiki are gaining popularity as fashion accessories in Japan as well. I recently purchased a handbag for myself, and a couple as gifts, that is made by tying a furoshiki through plastic rings that are used as handles. I just love my furoshiki handbag (picture above) and get a ton of compliments whenever I use it. Look for these handbags in department stores and souvenir shops throughout Tokyo.To learn how to wrap an amazing array of items, visit the “How to use Furoshiki” page presented by Japan’s Ministry of the Environment and be sure to take a furoshiki with you the next time you go shopping, the planet will thank you.

Image Credit: Personal Collection

Sitting on land that was once home to the mansions of feudal lords (daimyo) in the Edo Era and used as a military training ground in the following era you will find Hibiya Park. The garden was first opened in June, 1903 and was the first western style urban garden in Tokyo.

Ponder the central grass square and it’s surrounding blooms from the patio of the park office, a German-style bungalow built in 1910 and one of the few remaining examples of western-style architecture from the Meiji Era in Tokyo, where you will find a restaurant and snack shop.  Then take a leisurely 1.2 kilometer stroll past monuments, seasonal flowers, ponds and fountains. As with many of Tokyo’s parks you will find yourself lost in the beauty of of your surroundings and hardly aware that you are in the center of a busy city. Highlights in the park include Shinji-ike pond which sits alongside a stone wall that was once part of the outer defenses of the Edo Castle, some clay figures that are remains from ancient burial grounds in Miyazaki Prefecture and a crane fountain that graces the center of Kumogata-ike pond. The fountain is a beautiful sight anytime of the year but particularly popular in winter when icicles hang from the spread wings of the crane. Hibiya Park is located a short walk from either Hibiya or Kasumigaseki Stations and sits on the outer edge of the Imperial Palace Plaza.

Image Credit: Personal Collection

  As promised, this weeks Nihon on the Net will feature Impressions of Tokyo submitted to the newly revived Japan Blog Matsuri.  We have quite a few great articles to read, so let’s get started…

Tae Kim, next months host, talks about Google Street View of Japan in Google, what will they think of next? at Guide to Japanese.

Mark Ramsay presents Tokyo, Japan: The Electric City at Virtual Tripping.

Bill Belew shares Impressions of Tokyo - Is That All There Is? at EastAsiaFair.

Tori “The Chemist” Johnson presents “A Night in Ikebukuro” at Daily J.

Jason talks about traversing Tokyo Station in At 300 km/h - Impressions of Tokyo at Jason’s Random Thoughts.

Jordan shares some chance encounters in Tokyo Stories: Impressions of Tokyo at Chirimotsumoreba.

Billy West presents Looking Into the Abyss: First Impressions of Tokyo at 7:10 to Tokyo.

Christy Varonfakis Johnson shares her Impressions of Tokyo and some photos at On Focus Photo Blog.

Lulu presents For the love of Tokyo… at Cherry Blossom Adventures.

Chris presents First impressions of Tokyo: A City of Contrasts at Nihongo Notes. 

Mark shares the Taking Tokyo Taxi Challenge at PNN Tokyo Stories.

Nick Ramsay tells us about the New Narita Express Coming 2009 at LongCountdown.com.

An my contribution was Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan, author Lafcadio Hearn’s impressions of Japan which he wrote over a hundred years ago and are still relevant today.

Thanks to all who participated and shared their Impressions of Tokyo.  Next months Japan Blog Matsuri will be hosted by Tae Kim at Guide to Japanese and the topic will be “The Language of Japan”.  All you need to do to join in the fun is to write a post on the subject and submit it here before September 20th.

The Japan Blog Matsuri was revived by Nick Ramsay, creator of JapanSoc, a great social networking site for those interested in Japan.

Image Credit:  Personal Collection

If you are looking to keep up to date on the news from Japan there are a number of newspapers (shimbun) that publish in English.

Most of these newspapers can be found at major newsstands in Tokyo. If you are outside the city they are a little harder to come by but you can always check out the news from the comfort of your own home with these links.

• The Daily Yomiuri
• The Japan Times
• The Asahi Shimbun
• Mainichi Daily News

While I don’t subscribe to any of the papers listed above I find that The Japan Times Festival Listings page is a handy guide to some fun things to do in and around Tokyo. The Japan Times also issues “Weekend Scene” on weekly basis which is a good source for event listings and reviews along with some great features. Weekend Scene is available for free at a number or tourist destinations and other establishments where foreigners tend to congregate. The main features of Weekend Scene are usually online via the The Japan Times link above.

Photo Credit: Personal Collection

The Royal Park Hotel is located in Ningyocho, one of the city’s oldest and most traditional neighborhoods. The hotel goes out of its way to make sure that guests feel welcome and offers a variety of different ways for guests to explore the history, culture and culinary options that the area has to offer. The guest relations officer will be clad in a traditional kimono on weekdays and will be happy to provide you with a map of the area and sightseeing suggestions.

Discover Old Edo (Tokyo) by Rickshaw or explore some of the area restaurants by utilizing the bilingual menus offered to guests. The hotels restaurants serve Kobe and Matsuzaka beef steaks Teppan-yaki style and Tempura and the Orpheus Sky Lounge offers views of the Tokyo skyline from the Sumida River to Tokyo Tower.

The Royal Park Hotel is located next door to the Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT), which provides easy access to and from Narita International Airport. Room rates start at Y35,700 (US $357) for double occupancy. (access map)

Image Credit: Flickr, Royal Park Hotel, Tokyo